Cordoba to Zafra

I saw this charming bronze as I was leaving Cordoba Old Town

My trusty MSR Dragonfly stove. Its multifuel and I run it on petrol as there are plenty of garages about, but I get some funny looks when I ride up to a pump and fill up with 0.8 litre. Here trying to dry my boots out after a soggy ride into the hills north of  Cordoba. I'm camping in the woods and tucked up in my 'maggot' I was just thinking how noisy woods are at night. Owls in particular towit towooing.........and the screeching of whatever their hunting, when suddenly just outside my tent there was the grunting and snorting of  wild boar. I#m sure they could smell all the food goodies in my tent and  I wondered if, like bears, they might barge into the tent uninvited. I had a quick look on the internet for advice and quickly turned it off again as I read about all these horror stories. I did consider putting my food bag up a tree but it was dark and raining and after a while they moved on anyway.

I like radio masts because they mean that you are probably at the top of the climb that's been making you sweat for the last hour. In a similar vein I like valleys with railway lines because you know the gradient is going to be sensible.

This is the Albergue de Espiel in the small town of Espiel. Its a converted train station and although I was the only guest I arrived in the middle of a karaoke cum disco that was arranged as part of the Carnaval celebrations. It was excellent entertainment with some local folk type dancing thrown in..

The had a great log fire and an excellent Rioja...........still trying to dry my boots out!

My route to Zafra from Espiel

Sunset from the railway station . The tracks looked like they were still in use. I was told  until recently there was a weekly train shifting 'carbón' or coal from the local mine but that had now closed. Its the end of the line for coal. Oil next?

Doing a bit of route planning with  a cup of tea - very civilised

Now what's my room number? For the visually impaired I suppose.

My bike is stored in the corridor opposite the communal loo. I pay a nocturnal visit and notice that my back tyre is flat.....again! Another delayed departure but this time I fit a tube filled with a  gunge to block leaks.........and  it worked, no more flats!

Not a great photo as they are a bit shy, but these dark-skinned pigs are everywhere. Jamon is big businees here.

My brother Rob suggested a brandy with my coffee would perk me up. Now I'm hooked and if its cold I'll maybe have a couple a day. The average price is 2.50 euro

Sunny during the day, but the temperature plummets once the sun goes down.

Maybe it's wild camping but it's certainly not stealth camping

This was a cold night, The GPS was in my bar bag in the tent

In the morning I up-end the tent and face the sun

.... a bit like these

Waiting outside the Albergue Convento De San Francisco for someone to come and let me in. There was no-one there, definitely low-season for pilgrims.

I finally reach Zafra and I'm booked into an Albergue that is a converted convent, very nice...........again I am the only occupant. 

This is not the convent, It's a parador, a governmen- run hotel, normally in some converted historic building.

A highly decorated chemist

After a thorough tour of the old town it's back to the convent kitchen for a drop of Merlot and a bit of next stage route planning. The room was so cold my olive oil on the right of the picture has solidified......and has remained so for the rest of the trip. I have to stand it in my billy can while its heating up  to be able to use it.